Tlacolula Sunday Market: Oaxaca’s Cultural Heartbeat

Uncovering Zapotec culture at Tlacolula Market, Oaxaca’s best-kept secret.

“Tienes que probarlo, es muy rico” “You have to try it, it’s delicious,” said a voice from somewhere behind me. As I pulled my eye away from my camera’s viewfinder, I saw a small woman with long, braided, dark hair and glistening eyes, a trickle of sweat forming around her hairline.

Manning her barbeque stall, she briskly turned over chunks of chivo and borrego (lamb and goat -for what the market is famous) on a small, smoking barbeque. The smell was intoxicating, a blend of smoky wood and marinated meat, sizzling and crackling over the open flame.

This was the Tlacolula Sunday Market, where every corner held a new gastronomic discovery, each stall a doorway into the rich tapestry of Oaxacan culture.

Tlacolula market, Oaxaca is a kaleidoscope of colors, sounds, and smells, and is one of the most vibrant and authentic experiences in all of Oaxaca, if not Mexico. For locals and visitors alike, it’s not just a place to shop but a place to connect, to taste, and to immerse oneself in the rich traditions of the Zapotec people.

Whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a first-time visitor, the Tlacolula Market offers an unforgettable journey through the heart of Oaxaca.

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A Little Background on Tlacolula Market

The Tlacolula Sunday Market, one of the oldest continuously operating markets in Mesoamerica, has roots that stretch back over a thousand years, deeply entwined with the rich cultural tapestry of the Zapotec civilization.

Situated in the heart of the Oaxaca Valley, this market has been a vital center of commerce and social exchange since pre-Hispanic times. Initially, a trading hub where indigenous peoples would barter goods such as textiles, pottery, and food, the market has evolved but still retains its ancient traditions.

Today, it stands as a symbol of the enduring legacy of indigenous culture in Oaxaca, where time-honored practices and crafts are preserved and celebrated, making it not just a marketplace but a cultural cornerstone of the region.

How to Get to Tlacolula Market from Oaxaca City

Getting to the Tlacolula Sunday Market from Oaxaca City is a fairly straightforward journey. Situated about 18 miles ( 30 km) southeast of Oaxaca City, the market is a comfortable half-day trip, making it an essential stop on any Oaxacan itinerary.

The easiest way to reach Tlacolula de Matamoros market from Oaxaca City is by taking a taxi direct from your hotel or a colectivo (shared taxi). Collectivos are a popular option for both locals and visitors, offering a more direct route to the market.

You can catch a colectivo from outside the Eduardo Vasconcelos Baseball Stadium or the Periférico, here—just look for the burgundy and white vehicles heading to Tlacolula. The ride costs around 35-40 pesos and takes about 40 minutes.

If you prefer a bus, head to one of the smaller bus stations around the city. Buses leave frequently on Sundays and will drop you off right near the market entrance. The bus journey takes a bit longer, about an hour, but it’s a local and scenic ride through the Oaxacan countryside.

For those who want more flexibility, renting a car is another option. This allows you to explore other nearby attractions, such as the Mitla ruins or the Hierve el Agua, all in one day. The drive is relatively easy, following Highway 190 east out of Oaxaca City. Parking in Tlacolula can be challenging on market day, so arrive early to secure a spot.

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What to Expect at Tlacolula Sunday Market

As you step into the Sunday Market in Tlacolula, prepare to be overwhelmed—in the best way possible. The market is one of the oldest and most traditional in Oaxaca, a place where the Zapotec culture is palpable in every stall, every interaction, and every bite of food.

The market sprawls through the narrow streets of Tlacolula and around the town’s Cathedral with vendors setting up shop as early as dawn. It’s a sensory overload from the moment you arrive: the vibrant colors of handmade textiles, the fragrant aromas of spices and herbs, the chatter of vendors in a mix of Spanish and Zapotec, and the sight of indigenous women in traditional dress, their faces weathered by the sun.

At the heart of the market, you’ll find the food stalls, where the real magic happens. Here, local women prepare traditional dishes passed down through generations, using recipes that have remained unchanged for centuries.

You’ll see baskets overflowing with chapulines (fried grasshoppers), stacks of tlayudas (large, crispy tortillas), and rows of colorful moles in every shade from deep chocolate brown to fiery red.

Move beyond the food stalls, and you’ll discover a treasure trove of Oaxacan handicrafts. From handwoven rebozos (shawls) to intricately embroidered blouses and dresses, the craftsmanship is extraordinary. The alebrijes—brightly colored, fantastical wooden creatures—make for unique souvenirs, while the pottery stalls showcase the rich tradition of Oaxacan ceramics, with designs often inspired by ancient Zapotec patterns.

Don’t miss the fruit and vegetable section, where you’ll encounter many local fruits. Mamey, cherimoya, and the spiny guanabana are just a few examples of the tropical bounty on display. Even the everyday produce here has a special vibrancy, with tomatoes, chiles, and squash piled high in stunning arrays of color.

What to Eat at Tlacolula Market

Tlacolula Market is a food lover’s paradise, and to visit without indulging in its culinary offerings would be a grave shame. The market is famous for its barbacoa, a traditional Oaxacan barbeque where goat (chivo) or lamb (borrego) is slow-cooked in a half-barrel grill, resulting in tender, flavorful meat that’s typically served with fresh tortillas, grilled onions, and cilantro.

It’s a must-try, and you’ll find barbacoa stalls throughout the market, each with its family recipe. We recommend seeking out Barbacoa Juanita or Doña Adolfa for tried and tested grilled meat.

Another essential dish is the tlayuda, often referred to as the “Oaxacan pizza.” A large, thin, and crispy tortilla is smeared with a layer of refried beans, then topped with quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese), avocado, tomato, and your choice of meat, usually chorizo or tasajo (thinly sliced beef). The tlayuda is then grilled to perfection, creating a delightful mix of textures and flavors.

For the adventurous eater, chapulines are a must. These crunchy, seasoned grasshoppers are a traditional Oaxacan snack, often served with a squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of salt. They can be eaten on their own or added to tacos, or even cocktails for an extra crunch.

If you have a sweet tooth, be sure to try the pan de yema, a rich egg yolk bread that’s slightly sweet and wonderfully soft. It pairs perfectly with a cup of chocolate de agua, a frothy, spiced hot chocolate made with water instead of milk, a tradition in Oaxaca.

And if you’re visiting during the right season, don’t miss the nieve de tuna—a sorbet made from the fruit of the prickly pear cactus, offering a refreshing end to your culinary exploration.

Some other foods not to be missed are empanadas– turnovers filled with a variety of fillings including mole amarillo or yellow mole, quesadillas, and memelas, similar to a tlayuda just with a thicker tortilla.

In terms of beverage, there’s plenty of aquas frescas, and agua de coco and don’t miss trying the specialty tejate if you haven’t already. Tejate is a traditional, fermented Oaxacan drink crafted from toasted corn, cacao, mamey seed, and the dried blossom of the cacao tree. It has a nutty and subtly sweet flavor with a rich, creamy texture.

Top Tips for Visiting

Arrive Early: The market is at its best early in the morning, when vendors are just setting up and the crowds are thinner. Arriving before 8 a.m. will give you a more relaxed experience and the chance to see the market before it gets too busy.

Bring Cash: The majority of vendors deal in cash only. It’s best to bring plenty of small bills and coins, as making change can be difficult. There are a few ATMs in Tlacolula, but it’s wise to have cash on hand before you arrive.

Dress Comfortably: The market can get crowded and the weather hot, so wear light, comfortable clothing and sturdy shoes. A hat and sunscreen are also recommended, especially if you plan to spend a lot of time exploring the outdoor stalls, but generally, there is a lot of shade.

Try the Barbacoa: As mentioned earlier, the barbacoa is a highlight of the market. Find a stall that looks busy—locals always know the best spots—and don’t be shy about ordering a plate. It’s a meal you won’t forget.

Respect the Vendors: Many of the people selling their goods at the market are indigenous Zapotec, and for them, this is more than just a business; it’s a way of life. Be respectful in your interactions, ask before taking photos, and show appreciation for their craftsmanship and culinary skills.

Explore Beyond the Market: Tlacolula is more than just its market. The town itself is charming, with a beautiful church, Templo de Santa María de la Asunción, that’s worth a visit. If you have time, consider exploring some of the nearby attractions, such as the ancient Zapotec ruins of Yagul or Mitla.

Practice Your Spanish: While you’ll find some English speakers at the market, especially among the younger vendors, a little Spanish goes a long way. Even just knowing basic phrases like “¿Cuánto cuesta?” (How much does it cost?) or “Gracias” (Thank you) will enhance your experience and endear you to the locals.

Stay Hydrated: With so much to see and do, it’s easy to forget to stay hydrated, especially in the heat. Bring a bottle of water with you, or take advantage of the fresh juices and aguas frescas sold at the market.

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